This year, I wanted to ring in 2025 a bit differently for several reasons. First, I’ve been making a conscious effort to reduce my alcohol consumption, with the goal of potentially quitting altogether. Second, many of my friends were scattered this New Year’s Eve—some abroad and others tied up with their own plans. Most importantly, it was the first time I could celebrate New Year’s Eve together with my girlfriend, making the occasion feel even more special.

These factors paved the way for a more unique celebration, and I saw an opportunity to weave Discovering Bites into the festivities. My girlfriend suggested the idea of dining at Hoppers, a Sri Lankan restaurant chain, after noticing it trending on Chinese social media platform Xiao Hong Shu (Little Red Book). Several posts raved about a standout dish: their bone marrow curry (Bone Marrow Varuval). Intrigued, we did some digging and discovered that Hoppers was offering a festive tasting menu featuring the curry. Without hesitation, we booked an early evening table, eagerly counting down to December 31st—made even more exciting by recommendations from friends who praised the restaurant’s food.

Hoppers: A Sri Lankan Culinary Journey

Hoppers is a celebrated restaurant co-founded and creatively led by Karan Gokani. Recognised early on for its exceptional Sri Lankan cuisine, it was awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand in its first year of operation. Building on this success, the team expanded to Marylebone in 2017, opening a new branch inspired by the architectural vision of Sri Lanka’s Geoffrey Bawa and now stands with a three locations across the capital Soho, Marylebone and King's Cross.

Karan’s journey is a fascinating one. Born in Mumbai, he relocated to England in 2005 to study law at Cambridge. However, in 2012, he made the bold decision to step away from his legal career and pursue his true passion for food. He spent time travelling through India and Sri Lanka, immersing himself in their culinary traditions and vibrant cultures, which have deeply influenced Hoppers’ menu and ethos.

Beyond the restaurant, Karan has shared his expertise through writing for major publications, including The Guardian, The Telegraph, and National Geographic, and has appeared on beloved UK shows such as Sunday Brunch and Saturday Kitchen. His storytelling extends beyond the kitchen, painting a vivid picture of Sri Lanka’s rich culinary heritage.

In 2020, they launched their largest venue in King’s Cross, which draws influence from the coastal route between Colombo and Galle. For those in central London, Hoppers also has a Soho location, ensuring accessibility to diners across the city. Hoppers brings the essence of Sri Lanka to London through Karan's vision, offering dishes like Dosas, Kothu, Hoppers, and an array of small plates known as Short Eats. The menu is designed for communal dining, with highlights including seafood grills and snacks inspired by the island’s coastal flavours.

Cocktails and Drinks

Arriving well ahead of our reservation, we decided to start the evening at the bar, soaking in the lively atmosphere of Hoppers. As someone working to reduce my alcohol intake, the thought of indulging in celebratory drinks sparked some internal conflict. After some deliberation, I decided to allow myself a few carefully chosen tipples during the meal, committing to non-alcoholic options for the rest of the night. This approach brought an unexpected challenge: being more deliberate in selecting drinks that would complement both the evening and the flavours of the tasting menu, which didn’t come with pairings.

I must commend the bar staff, who were incredibly attentive and knowledgeable. They took the time to explain that every cocktail on the menu was crafted to reflect the flavour profiles and spirit of Sri Lankan cuisine. Their expertise made the experience even more enjoyable. Between the two of us, we sampled four unique drinks, each offering something special to the occasion.

Old Ceylon

The Old Ceylon is a thoughtful nod to Sri Lanka’s colonial history, harking back to its days as Ceylon under Portuguese and British rule. Hopper's creative take on the classic Old Fashioned features a blend of Evan Williams Bourbon and Amrut Fusion Whiskey from India, elevated with Kithul—a Sri Lankan natural sweetener—alongside cinnamon bitters and orange. Served in a rocks glass with a single, perfectly clear ice cube, it’s garnished elegantly with orange peel and a maraschino cherry.

Sweeter than a traditional Old Fashioned, the added sweetness was a welcome twist, while the cinnamon bitters provided a delightful depth that many bars often shy away from. The cocktail was remarkably smooth, easy on the palate, and an ideal aperitif to start the evening. However, its bold alcohol-forward nature may not appeal to everyone—my girlfriend, for instance, found it a bit too potent. Nevertheless, for those who enjoy a well-crafted, robust cocktail with a touch of sweetness, the Old Ceylon is a worthy choice.

Pettah Sling (King's Cross Exclusive)

My girlfriend, preferring a fruit-forward drink to mask any strong alcohol notes, opted for the Pettah Sling. This cocktail was crafted with Two Drifters Pineapple Rum, coconut falernum, and grenadine, served in a tiki-style rocks glass brimming with crushed ice. The presentation was as vibrant as the drink itself, adorned with a pineapple leaf, a slice of pineapple, and a touch of blowtorched caramel for added flair.

The flavour profile was intriguing, offering an initial burst of sweetness followed by a lingering sour aftertaste. It had a playful character reminiscent of a fusion between a Piña Colada and a Singapore Sling. While the drink was undoubtedly creative and well-balanced for those who enjoy a tangy twist, it didn’t quite suit my palate—the sour finish felt a touch too prolonged for my liking.

Tropical Lager

The Tropical Lager is a unique creation born from a collaboration between Hoppers and Two Tribes Brewery, served fresh on tap in a 2/3 pint rounded glass. This light and refreshing beer features tropical fruit and citrus flavour notes, making it an ideal companion for the meal. Its subtle sweetness and fruity character perfectly complemented the spiciness of the dishes, balancing the heat without overpowering the palate.

This lager is a fantastic choice even for those who don’t typically enjoy beer. Its light body and approachable flavours make it delightfully drinkable, while the smaller serving size in a 2/3 pint glass ensures it feels less overwhelming for anyone who might shy away from a full pint. For me, it was the perfect option to sip throughout the meal, enhancing the overall dining experience.

Bibbikan Sour (King's Cross Exclusive)

The Bibbikan Sour caught my attention early in the evening, thanks to a bartender who enthusiastically described it as a tropical twist on a classic Whiskey Sour. The standout feature? Evan Williams bourbon infused with melted white chocolate, paired with spiced arrack—a Sri Lankan coconut blossom nectar—and the aromatic warmth of cardamom. Staying true to Hoppers' dedication to Sri Lankan-inspired flavours, it promised to be a unique cocktail experience.

I decided to order the Bibbikan Sour to accompany my dessert, and it arrived in a beautifully presented coup glass. The cocktail featured a prominent foam head adorned with delicately painted bitters decorations, offering an artistic touch. The contrast between the dark body of the drink and the airy foam was visually striking, earning an impressed nod even from my girlfriend.

Taste-wise, it was smooth and well-balanced, with the arrack and bourbon blending seamlessly alongside the cardamom’s spicy notes. However, the white chocolate infusion, which initially piqued my curiosity, struggled to make itself known. Its subtlety was overshadowed by the bolder flavours, leaving me slightly underwhelmed. While it was a delicious cocktail overall and a satisfying take on a Whiskey Sour, the much-anticipated white chocolate element fell short of expectations.

Festive Tasting Menu Experience

Starters

Banana Chips

These were intended as a light snack to tide us over while the main dishes were being prepared. The portion was generous, and the chips had a pleasantly crisp texture reminiscent of tapioca chips. However, they fell short on flavour, coming across as rather bland. A dip or a touch of seasoning could have elevated them, adding a much-needed burst of flavour to complement their satisfying crunch. While they served their purpose, a little extra effort in seasoning would have made them truly memorable.

Mutton Rolls

These rolls featured a thick crumb batter encasing a filling of mutton. While the batter provided a satisfying crunch, it made the rolls noticeably tough to cut into, highlighting the robust layer holding the meat inside. Each person was served one sizeable roll, paired with a chilli dip that brought a much-needed contrast to the slightly dry texture of the filling. The dip’s heat and tanginess complemented the dish well, adding a burst of flavour that balanced the otherwise heavy and dense rolls.

Lamb Kothu Roti

Kothu Roti, often hailed as the ultimate leftovers dish, has been a staple on Hoppers’ menu since the restaurant’s inception in 2015—and is reportedly Karan’s favourite. Traditionally, this Sri Lankan classic repurposes leftover roast lamb, curry spices, and shredded flatbreads, stir-frying them together until the curry reaches a dry, hearty consistency. Our portion was nothing short of delightful. The dish had a stir-fried essence, with the bold flavours of curry spices shining through every bite. It carried a satisfying level of heat that complemented the lamb beautifully, making it rich, moreish, and an ideal choice for lamb enthusiasts.

Hot Butter Squid

This was the standout dish of the evening and easily both our favourite. I can be quite particular about calamari; if it’s even slightly tough, it ruins the experience for me, as it ends up feeling like chewing on a rubber band. However, Hoppers’ hot butter squid was nothing short of exceptional. The squid was beautifully tender, encased in a perfectly seasoned, light batter that had just the right amount of crispiness. It was fried with vibrant red onions and green peppers, and finished with a garnish of fresh spring onions, adding a burst of colour and flavour. The dish offered a harmonious balance of savoury, slightly sweet, and subtly spicy notes, making it absolutely flawless.

Bone Marrow Varuval & Roti

This dish was the reason we chose Hoppers for our New Year’s Eve celebration, driven by the buzz it was generating on Chinese social media. The excitement was mirrored in the restaurant, where several neighbouring tables were filled with Chinese diners eager to try it. The Bone Marrow Varuval is a luxurious offering that pairs roasted bone marrow with a spiced coconut milk sauce. Its striking presentation features four large marrow bones, topped with crispy crumbs and aromatic curry leaves, all surrounded by a vibrant, rich curry gravy.

For those unfamiliar with bone marrow, it has a soft, almost gelatinous texture, derived from the fat and collagen within the bone, and offers a decadently buttery quality. The dish is best enjoyed with the accompanying roti bread: we scooped a spoonful of marrow and curry sauce onto the flaky roti for a messy but utterly satisfying bite.

Though undeniably indulgent, the curry sauce delivered a more pronounced flavour than the marrow itself, making the dish feel more like a visual centrepiece than a flavour leader. While it wasn’t the standout of our meal (that honour went to the Hot Butter Squid), it was a memorable experience and already the starters left us feeling quite full before the mains even arrived.

The Main Course: Banana Leaf Wrapped Lamprais Parcel

After an indulgent series of starters, we found ourselves staring at the main course with a mix of excitement and trepidation. Already feeling full, we were curious—and slightly apprehensive—about how we’d tackle what we thought was another six dishes plus dessert. Not only were we in for a surprise, but we got two!

The meal was a Lamprais, an Anglicised version of the Dutch word lomprijst, meaning “packet of rice.” This dish dates back to the 16th century and reflects a blend of Sri Lankan and Dutch colonial influences. It features a generous portion of rice mixed with shredded meats and vegetables, all wrapped in a banana leaf and baked to perfection.

The first surprise was its sheer size; the parcel looked enormous and all the listed dishes were combined into it. The second? We were each served one. Our initial awe quickly turned into intimidation as the portions felt daunting. Even as someone with a hearty appetite, I found myself wondering how I would finish it. But with the mindset that it was New Year’s Eve and there was no need to rush, we dug in.

Opening the banana leaf revealed an aromatic medley of rice and accompaniments, including:

• Chicken Lampara Kari

• Ash Plantain Dry Kari

• Fish Frikkadel

• Boiled Egg

A side of mini poppadoms and a fresh dip completed the dish. The Lamprais was hearty and full of flavour, but I found that many of the components blended together, making it difficult to distinguish the individual elements apart from their textures. The fish frikkadel—a fried fish ball reminiscent of the mutton rolls—and the boiled egg stood out more clearly.

In theory, this meal should have been a dream for me: packed with protein, rich with spice, and full of variety. But after such filling and decadent starters, tackling it was a real challenge. My girlfriend wisely chose to take hers home as a takeaway, and in hindsight, that was the better option.

If you’re considering the tasting menu, my advice would be to prepare yourself for a feast. The Lamprais does not appear on their standard menu so it must be a festive season exclusive and you will need to get to Hoppers soon to try it.

Dessert: Love Cake

After taking a moment to recover from the main course, we found ourselves wondering what exactly a Love Cake was—and more importantly, whether we could even find the space to enjoy it. Love Cake is a traditional Sri Lankan semolina cake, typically served on special occasions. Its history dates back to Portuguese colonial rule, combining the European ingredient semolina with Sri Lanka's rich array of spices like nutmeg, cinnamon, and cardamom. According to folklore, the laborious grinding of these spices represents a symbol of love through effort and care.

Our Love Cake arrived as a neat square, resembling a sponge cake, topped with a nut crumb for added texture. It rested on a vibrant pink sauce, likely strawberry or a similar fruit flavour. The cake itself was delightfully spiced, with the warm notes of nutmeg and cardamom shining through. The pink sauce provided a sweet and slightly tangy contrast, evoking nostalgic memories of Tottenham cake but with a far moister and more decadent sponge.

The nut crumb on the exterior added a satisfying crunch that elevated the dessert’s texture. As a treat traditionally reserved for celebrations, it felt fitting to end our New Year’s Eve feast with something so symbolic and indulgent. The Love Cake was not just a delicious finale—it was a perfect way to close out a night of rich, vibrant flavours.

Service and Atmosphere

We arrived at the restaurant around 5:30 pm, just a short walk from King's Cross station on a street lined with modern restaurants offering global cuisines. At this early hour, the restaurant was fairly empty, and the staff warmly welcomed us, even accommodating our request for an earlier table without hesitation. The host kindly took care of my overnight bag, which was admittedly quite heavy, yet they reassured me with genuine politeness that it was no trouble at all—a gesture that immediately set a positive tone for the evening.

Throughout our visit, the staff were exceptionally friendly and attentive, taking the time to explain the flavours and nuances of the dishes and drinks, which added an educational and personal touch to the experience. From my own perspective, I know how demanding working on big occasions like Christmas and New Year's Eve can be for hospitality staff. Despite the restaurant growing busier as the evening progressed, the team maintained their cheerfulness and professionalism. Their camaraderie was evident, fostering a warm and welcoming atmosphere that felt authentic and enjoyable.

The design of the restaurant added to its charm, blending elements of Sri Lankan heritage with a contemporary city vibe. Retro posters of Ceylon and vintage-style advertisements were paired with traditional touches like wooden tiki heads and elephants, all set against the backdrop of modern features such as expansive glass windows and a striking bar with its impressive beer tap chamber. The thoughtful décor created a harmonious and inviting environment, perfectly complemented by the character and enthusiasm of the staff.

Conclusion

We wanted a truly special occasion to welcome the new year, and Hoppers delivered in every sense. The meal was indulgent, the portions generous, and the flavours a dazzling celebration of Sri Lankan culinary heritage. From the rich spices to the creative dishes steeped in tradition and colonial influence, Hoppers offers an authentic experience that celebrates the diverse cuisine of Sri Lanka.

For those who love a good curry but crave something with extra flair and sophistication, Hoppers is a must-visit. It's perfect for adventurous diners eager to explore bold flavours or anyone curious about the unique fusion of South Asian and colonial-inspired dishes. The vibrant plates being served around the restaurant were a testament to the creativity and variety the menu offers, making it a feast for both the eyes and the palate.

If you’re not in the mood for a full meal, the restaurant also caters to casual visits with an impressive drinks menu. Their tropical lager is a refreshing choice for those who prefer a lighter beer with a subtle fruity finish, though keep in mind that each Hoppers location has its own exclusive drink options – check out their individual menus here.

If you’re intrigued by the Lamprais, be sure to visit soon, as it’s part of their limited-time festive menu. But really, I cannot stress this enough, you have to be a big eater or prepared to take it home, I was so full and uncomfortable for the rest of the evening's festivities after attempting to eat all of it.

Hoppers King's Cross offers a memorable dining experience, and we'd love to hear about your own Sri Lankan food adventures in the comments.

Additional Information

• Address: Unit 3, 4 Pancras Sq, London N1C 4AG

• Bar Price Point: £10–£14 per cocktail; £5–£6 per soft/beer

• Restaurant Price Point: £49 per person

• Insider Tip 1: Only order a tasting menu if you are a big eater

• Insider Tip 2: If you want to try a Lamprais visit soon as it is only part of a festive tasting menu.