After a weekend travelling across the Netherlands, drinking and indulging in Dutch cuisine, I left the country in a hungover haze, having skipped breakfast and only just making it to the airport gate. When I finally arrived back in London, following the the train journey from Luton Airport, I was starving. I stepped off the train at Farringdon, intending to power through the rest of my journey, but I simply couldn't. I wandered out of the station in search of something quick — and that’s when I spotted the bold rouge exterior of Bouchon Racine’s Three Compasses.

What I hadn’t realised until that moment is that Bouchon Racine occupies the upstairs of this 300-year-old pub, offering a more refined French bistro experience, while downstairs, the pub itself serves up baguettes, small plates, and French-style deli dishes from a cosy little kitchen tucked in the corner. A large chalkboard greeted me as I walked in, listing the day’s offerings — all unmistakably French and hard to choose between.

Bouchon Racine was founded by restaurant director Dave Strauss and chef Henry Harris, a British chef long admired for his dedication to classic French bistro cooking. Back in 2002, Henry opened the original Racine in Knightsbridge, where it quickly gained a loyal following. However, Racine unfortunately closed due to rising rents.

But in 2022, the Racine name made a celebrated return. Partnering with Dave Strauss, Henry opened Bouchon Racine above The Three Compasses in Farringdon — a new take on his original vision. The restaurant was an instant hit, picking up Opening of the Year at the 2023 National Restaurant Awards and debuting at number five on their top 100 list — rising to number four in 2024.

The name “bouchon” is French for a specific style of Lyonnaise bistro known for hearty food — a concept that fits beautifully with the pub’s casual setting. While Bouchon Racine upstairs serves refined provincial French cuisine, the team also run the downstairs pub, The Three Compasses, offering its own chalkboard menu of rustic deli-style fare — casual, classic, and full of charm.

The Experience — French Pub Meets Deli Counter

The Three Compasses pub oozes French cool — from vintage posters on the walls and a hefty cognac selection to wine flowing from beer-style taps. I know it was a Monday afternoon, but I couldn’t believe how quiet it was inside. The Racine name has pedigree in London and the setting is full of character so even on a quieter day I expected a few more seated. But their loss is my gain as I had the entire place to myself.

At first, I’ll admit, the menu threw me off a bit. Scribbled across a large chalkboard, it offered everything from baguettes to starters to deli plates, with a wide range of prices that felt slightly overwhelming for what I thought would be a quick stop-off lunch. But then again, I was in a French pub — so naturally, a baguette seemed like the best choice.

The deli counter sits openly in view, right next to the bar. Just one chef mans the station, standing behind the pass with a massive fridge behind him stocked with beautiful cuts of meat. It wasn’t immediately clear how it all worked — part of me thought it might be one of those places where you point and build your sandwich like a classic deli. But when I stepped forward, I was politely told to grab a table and someone would come over to take my order.

Although I didn’t dine at the restaurant itself, Bouchon Racine's influence definitely extends downstairs. The French staples, and the relaxed-but-considered layout all feel like an extension of what’s on offer upstairs.

The Food — Smoked Sausage Baguette & Simple Pleasures

I ordered the French smoked sausage baguette, which came generously stuffed with creamy coleslaw and a good handful of crispy onions. There was a surprising amount of bite packed into this sandwich — the coleslaw was fresh and crunchy, the onions added a salty crackle, and the sausage itself had that dense, meaty chew you'd hope for.

The sausage was served warm, which meant the mayonnaise in the slaw started to loosen slightly — making it a little messier than expected, but still a delicious eat. Honestly, I didn’t mind the mess — it felt rustic, hearty, and homemade.

At £14 for the sandwich alone — and £17.30 including a lemonade — it was a touch expensive for a lunch with no sides. In hindsight, knowing I was spending that kind of money, I might have gone for something a bit richer, like the confit leg baguette I saw listed — just £4 more and likely more layered in flavour and texture. That said, it’s not necessarily the sort of spot you’d make your go-to for weekday office lunches.

Looking back, though, my visit made me curious to explore more. After browsing Bouchon Racine’s upstairs menu — with its escargots, veal chops and beef tartare — I’d love to return for the full French bistro experience. The ever-changing menu suggests that everything is fresh, creative, and made with purpose — nothing wasted, everything enjoyed.

Bouchon Racine: A Place to Slow Down

Ironically, I stated earlier in the article that I was surprised at how quiet the pub was as it was full of charm and character yet barely a soul inside, excluding myself, the bartender, and deli cook. But I believe that Bouchon Racine is the type of pub that when it's all yours, that's when it can be fully appreciated, like your own spot recluse in central London.

For me, it would not be my standard work lunch spot. Instead, it would be the perfect place for those with a random day off, wanting an indulgent, easy lunch in a calm environment while London is passing by. If you are in holiday mode, in Farringdon, like I still was, this is the perfect hidden spot for something deliciously French and unfussy, that's worth slowing down for.

Bouchon Racine / Three Compasses Key Information

Sandwich Price: £14

Website: www.bouchonracine.com/

Instagram: @bouchonracine

Address: (Bouchon Racine) Located in the Three Compasses, Upstairs, 66 Cowcross St, London EC1M 6BP